I have a 66 stang with an alternator. They just want this car that they dearly love to be able to cruise around smoothly and reliably, without having it dump them out on the side of the road or have it start making weird noises or belching out big clouds of funky-smelling smoke. And, yes, it is possible to pull the steering wheel down so far that it is scraping on the steering column tube, causing some drag and to make some funny scraping noises. The arrows are pointing to the horn contacts in the switch. There are a couple of ways to go about fixing that. This Turn Signal Wiring is a great reproduction direct fit replacement for your old and damaged wiring.
It's not just a matter of convenience: it's also a matter of safety for you and the other drivers on the road. I'm pretty sure that the hook thingy rides the edge, but, I'll double check that, also. My heater is also the three-speed version, and the spare wheel setup in the trunk is also the one of a 65. But take a look at this one which says the 66 thru 68 fog lights were generally wired the same. I googled a lot already, but it seems like there is just no good wiring diagram for fog lights on a 68 mustang on the internet.
I just noticed that you have a picture of what appears to be a 70 model car as an avatar. Those are lamps for an earlier car. If no power is getting there with the horn button pushed, you'll need to remove the horn button by pressing and turning the horn button counter-clockwise and it will pop off of the steering wheel. I recently replaced my steering wheel as well as the horn signal ring. The third picture is the back of a steering wheel. While having the main plug disconnected, I also checked the resistance between the yellow cable and the blue cable with yellow stripes when honking the horn, and found that the setup works. We are wondering of our steering wheel is defective.
When the steering wheel is installed however, that power is lost, ie the test light goes out. Well you're in luck I'm here to save the day. Another hint is that the wire colors from the '66 schematic are still the ones being used on the '68. The point of this being that the emergency flashers also have constant power, so, it's possiblr that the emergency flashers are contributing to yourproblem, also. When you push on the horn button, that causes one, or both, of the contacts on the horn button to touch the contacts on the steering wheel, completing the circuit and causing the horns to honk. One runs straight back to the fuse box to pick up power and the other across and above the steering column to the left to the headlight switch then straight to the firewall. So, I decided to simply tighten the wheel nut, which was loose.
I'm pretty sure there's no accessible relay - whatever there is is built into the horns themselves. One wire 654 is spliced to the alternator Batt feed and the other 655 connects to the Batt post in the Starter relay solenoid. You are correct on both counts. The reason for this is because the switch can be used on other 1968 Fords such as T-birds and Cougars with the extra 2 pins being used for sequential lights. You might also need to replace the turn signal switch assembly, as these spring-loaded contacts could also introduce unwanted resistance. That wire confused with a ground is almost surely described by a much younger Veronica in this thread from 5 years ago: V: May I suggest a medal for longevity of technical excellence? You can just use a screwdriver or something and lay it down across the two contacts.
The gauge measures this difference and uses it to indicate if the car is charging or not. If you could tell me the scheduled production date of your car, that would really help out. We carry instrument cluster wiring harnesses with and without tachometer wiring, as well as instrument panel lighting equipment and dimmer switches. I don't have a schematic made yet so I will try to explain it to you. Right now you can only see part of the wiring diagrams, but, if you click on one of them, the rest of it will show up.
Power for the horns comes to the horn button by way of the yellow wire, to the ouboard contact,through the horn button and out to the horns by way of the blue wire with the yellow stripe. If grounding the two contacts on the turn signal switch does not make the horns blow the same way that by-passing the switch entirely did, then it's time for a new turn signal switch. After reading your posts, I went out to the garage, pushed on the wheel really hard and then pushed the horn button, it worked! Thanks, Gene The Alt gauge measures differences in current flow. If there isn't 12V there, then the turn signal switch and steering wheel are not the problem. I am having a horn related problem on my '66 mustang. The first pictures above don't show what happens to the black wire on the engine side of the blue connector.
If the 68 is somehow vastly different, I apologize in advance. Visit my repair page for Repair info, with pictures! I was working from a cut up harness and figuring the wiring on my own. This should show you the source of my confusion. All I get is a burp from the horns like they are trying to make noise but can't. I read somewhere long ago while my car was not running about some sort of shunt or something that needed to be there for the gauge to work? One more question - should the brown wire be hooked to the motor's black or orange wire? Also, does the little flat metal hook at the top of the wheel touch the back of the contact plate or ride along the edge of the plate? Looking at various sources the 68 fog lamps should have a single blue? Well I could be wrong. The motor has male orange and female black wire, while both yelow and brown have female ends.
The wiring comes with the wiring harness, turn signal canceling cam, a built-in horn switch and a built-in hazard switch. Should the whole steering wheel and column be at +12V? It is a very common problem for the contacts on either the steering wheel or the horn button to be worn down enough to either make very poor contact or no contact at all. I would really be surprised if they were, but, it's possible. I just got back from vacation monday and had a whole bunch of stuff to get caught up on. What that tells you, Scott, is that the problem lies somewhere in the stuff that you by-passed. The 2 oddball wires simply can be taped up because they won't be used. It looks to me as though the inner ring, which is always energized on the steering wheel is mounted to the metal center on the steering wheel and hence grounding itself to the steering coloumn shaft when it is intalled.
Or, if it is a incorrectly labeled, it came that way from Ford. And, based on what you've said, that is indeed what you need to do for all of those various ailments your horns are experiencing. I think that I would start by unplugging the turn signal switch and checking to see if I had 12V at the yellow wire in the connector that the turn signal switch plugs into. The Fog lights get their ground through the black wire in the harness and eyelets. Personally,nobody beats up on me like I do to myself when I post wrong info. The horn was always flaky when I drove it 20 years ago. Not the year you are looking for? I don't know at this point if I have the 4 pieces of the horn ring installed correctly I have tried so many iterations.