I will be attaching pictures as soon as I can to better illustrate. My compass has been activated by a local programmer who was able to hook up to my truck and turn on the options for the compass and the premium tire pressure monitoring system showing all four tire pressures instead of just a low tire message. When I got the car the tires looked low. I took a bit longer but I did not want to go too far and have to buy a new headliner. I have a 05 Ram. Right now though, trying to see how to defeat the Onstar.
Use a dot to point line intersection, or utilize line jumps to indicate cross lines that aren't connected. Mopar Parts Giant has you covered no matter what type of Dodge vehicle you drive. I believe all I need to do is have the sales code added that activates the module. The headliner is easy to cut but nerve racking. Added circuits also mean that fewer systems are affected in the event of a malfunction and repair is easier because fewer components have to be tested to isolate the cause of the problem. You need to be very careful working the hole towards the front window as you don't have a lot of room for error with those L clips the Overhead Console clips into the retainer with.
Overhead Console, Page 02 Fig. Be careful of all of the info. I didn't see it on the exploded parts diagrams though? I found two from salvage yards. On the 2500 series base and premium systems there is a light load switch located on the instrument panel in the center stack. Posted on Apr 23, 2010 Sedona-Car-Truck. I noticed on the factory cutout there isn't much headliner between the leading edge of the hole and the leading edge of the console. Aired up to 44psi as per the side of the tire , display says 38psi, still no warning light.
Basically I removed both A Pillars along with both Sun Visors to drop the Headliner enough to put the Overhead Console Retainer above the Headliner. The homelink worked as expected just needed a fused b+ and ground. And I have a use for all 4 of the extra switch spots on the center stack, so I can do without the light load button. Salvage yard may be your only option. There are two sets of them in the green plug that are not being used. Thanks for the update -Benny Cutting the hole in the headliner is a piece of cake. The Challenger had a connector under the passenger side A pillar cover that powered for the factory Homelink.
I was told the lin bus wire controls the lighting of the homelink switch and makes it dim when you turn on the lighting. Reinstalled the Sun Visors and cut a hole in the Console area's center mass and worked my way out. If anyone has knowledge of how to connect this lin bus wiring and can research where it goes that would be great. The only new wire I had to run was for constant power so the lights would also work when the buttons are pushed. That sales code is on the starscan list as available for my truck and was added without any problems. The headliner is a multi-layer of fiber board insulation and cardboard so you really need to go over your cuts mutliple times to cut all the layers. I took a bit longer but I did not want to go too far and have to buy a new headliner.
J Hello, I posted this information on another thread unrelated to this subject so I figured It would be better if I shared this info here so you may see it. The only draw back is that if my truck ever needs to be flashed to update the system configuration at the dealer the changes made to activate these functions get erased. Positive locking devices for terminals within the connectors and between mating halves ensure that connections are complete and secure. I cut the hole in the headliner by starting with a small hole and I worked in steps so it would not be too big when done. An additional mini fuse block has been added to provide more fusing.
I have completed my installation. Proximity to the battery ensures highly effective protection for all underhood circuits against overload. I followed the overhead light wire and found a plug in the dash under the left side cover on the end of the dash when the drivers door is open. In general it is a good idea to set the positive + supply to the top, and the negative - distribution at the bottom, in addition to the logical stream from left to right. I did find out when you install the evic, you still lose the horn and power to the steering wheel switches, so it has to be re-wired like the 11's.
But coming along a parts 2010+ Ram with said harness isn't easy for a lot of people to rip it out of. Everything else works as it should, so I am a bit stumped. I found the console on ebay. I am also wanting to know if it is just a plug an play affair with the wiring harness? I will be attaching pictures as soon as I can to better illustrate. The wiring was also simple. Thanks all for your help and have a great day! I don't care about the warning light.