Be patient, materialis removed a small amount at a time with trial fittings to the injector after each removal. The Mopar stuff is the bomb with the sealer, but I can't find it in rolls. The left of the two harnesses that you'll see would work its way loose and cause our blower motor to come on and off. The key is correctly sized terminals and quality crimpers. It is tough and long lasting.
Have the same problem, Fixed the injector wiring but mine will not start and run. Is there a special tool for this? They could have ordered a factory replacement harness, which is already terminated and bundled, just like the factory harness, and every-thing is where it should be for the stock components. I've been looking for this misfire problem for two years now. Got one clue - I've found that pin 110 which goes for 2 injector is pretty much tarnished - guessing it's because of problem with ground joint somewhere? She's leaving rubber behind again : After reading through the posts, I finally thought I got it. I had some nice Andriod pics but can't find them right now. Go over each wire and its location and check the car. Thanks everyone at this forum for the excellent advice.
I'm a little confused how my Idle air control and Barometric sensors are getting irregular voltage readings. Thanks It is very simple, the fuel injection harness is a stand-alone harness that terminates in a 10 pin connector. It was tedious to coat the wires and took some patience but well worth it. Wires part of troubleshooting, need to be done anyways C. Have replaced that and now she starts but runs like a bag of manure! I don't want to generate a problem at this point. I would prefer to not pay for a new one if I don't need it. Yes, the wrap looked good.
Started the car and its running perfectly. It's a wire harness with a 10-pin connector at one end, and a bunch of individual connectors that sprout off of it and connect to the injectors. Each engine requires the use of its own specific computer and harness, and keep in mind that there were changes made to each system year by year. I have 3 things what could be this problem: Trans, exhaust leak before O2 sensor or the wiring harness. Well, code went off and came right back on. They are intended for off- road or racing use only.
We did this to make sure we did not cross up any wiring. The car now runs well but, alas still suffers an engine miss, as you describe. Ddoug,newbie, I understand the principles of cancellation as you describe, as well as the general idea of electromagnetics. Surely, you'll love the tidy look and the not-so-obvious protection it can give to your car's efficiency. Peeled it open to find bare wires in 2 locations under the wrap! I will take a closer look. I had it towed to a mechanic. Took the wiper cowl off to make life easier and to change the O2 sensor.
Thanks It really isn't that complicated. Its submitted by Brenda Botha in the best field. There will be more to come. Now he's discouraged but seems to think the fried wires also fried the computer. I wouldnt be too certain of when they started shifting it to the pass side but my '06 could clearly have a problem. Note that the cold start injectors do not requireany modification of the injector plug. Looking at your list, it appears that the coil is the only remaining original part on your van.
I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the remaining injectors. After soldering the harness to plug connections, use double wall shrink tubes or use two shrink tubes as the photograph below illustrates. The battery negative was disconnected for this. He wasn't able to confrim, so did the diag at the dealer, and they weren't able to confirm as well. In this case, a ground reference wire from the computer may actually be connected directly to chassis ground. Although the original harness was still there, most of the terminals were broken, the wires were cracked and corroded, and it simply was not worth trying to fix, especially considering the car was being fully rebuilt.
Crimp connections often get a bad reputation because of poor installation. If i give it more throttle it's alsoo gone. Returned to the dealer, they did a compression test. Finally, I noticed one bank of the engine running slightlyricher that the other for no apparent reason. Also, the random nature of the way the wires were woven together would pretty much eliminate the theory that they were carefully aligned in such a particular way to strategically cancel out potential magnetic fields or energy.
The build was on, and Doug certainly had his hands full. What is involved in each? There are a lot of wires here. The wires can get brittle from the heat. It's not until you engage the trans and start to drive that it starts running rough. He spent many years as an avid Volvo enthusiast.
I am hoping it proves to be accumulated moisture in the pipe. To eliminate accessory drive issues, Doug built his own system. So a 2005 can have either the old 10 pin connector that runs over the exhaust manifold or the newer 14 pin plug that is routed on the passenger side. Although not absolutely necessary they are particularly useful, especially in manual transmission cars. I think these are all voltage issues. They are only good for emergency repairs. Now it feels like just one injector is down and when I rev the car up the lights and display are stable.