Style line Outer edge of collar or rever. Mark point 8 this gives half hip measurement plus 2. Examples of alternative waist shaping The waist shaping can be distributed in different ways depending on the design or block used. Tel: 01279 435 333; e-mail: web. There is no hand holding though, if you don't have any imagination, you will find the drafts leave you a little short. Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer.
One of my few complaint with this book and all it's editions, although it is getting regularly revised, it's in a way that is inconsistent and somewhat arbitrary. I would have liked to see all the information from previous editions made available not everyone has the privilege of owning several editions like I do. Cut away yokes and trace round. If you can take measurements, follow instructions, you can do this! The designer has to become familiar with the types of woven and knitted structure of fabric. This means 9cm shaping all sizes. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.
I feel with this edition the Author has taken an important step and accepting that the book needs to focus on communicating the basics and let the end user be the arbiter of fashion and style. Kindle version is clear and well laid out. However, I have to take one star away to keep things fair. Transplanted from Malaysia to Adelaide, I love to cook and sew, and this blog will be about all the wild domestic things the Wyld Woman gets up to. Wheel through a facing with the same extension. Close dart on lower section, trace round.
Very technical, but if you're keen on designing cloths fort he discerning man, ie tailoring, it's a must have. If not required take 1cm off shoulder edges as shown, add 1cm to sleeve head. Make sure the weight of the calico is as close to the weight of the cloth as possible. Mark back sleeve balance point at 9. For slight sleeve shaping narrow sleeve at wrist 3—5cm.
Winifred Aldrich is a practising designer who was formerly Professor of Clothing Technology at The Nottingham Trent University. I say so with nearly 20 years of experience. See the special table below for short or tall women. Draw in facing line; construct an extended facing ref. Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The design is then cut out in fabric and made up.
Trace round front sections allowing 2cm gap between vertical lines. Mark points 32 and 33 on waistline and hemline. Draw new side seam lines 1. Reduce the standard dart measurement by half. The section on skirt blocks shows how to make a basic block and then how to alter this to add flares, gores, pleats, gathers, flounces yokes, panels, various waistbands and pockets, and how to create asymmetrical styles. Knitted fabric of the same stretch quality must be used for making toiles for designs in jersey fabrics. Many people in the English speaking world use either the Imperial or Metric systems to measure, both systems are good.
Shear and drape are also often closely linked — these qualities allow the cutting of soft body skimming shapes. Cut out, open out at top edge to width required at top of cuff. Draw underarm seam, narrow at wrist if required. . One-piece sleeve Draw vertical line, place sleeves together at vertical line, to make shoulder dart. Transfer bust dart to panel seam. The aesthetic qualities of a fabric are often the inspiration which initiates a design.
Open sections of lower sleeve at the top the same amount, overlap slightly at lower edge. Paper Strong paper is used for patterns. Insert 4cm gusset shape at underarm. Draw a line from back shoulder dart to top of waist dart. Measurements required to draft the block Measurements from any of the size charts in this book pages 12—14 or personal measurements see page 178 can be applied to the block. Join point 18 to point 10. Ideally, it should be 90—92cm high.
Close original dart and secure with tape. Seam allowance widths vary with the type of manufacture and garment. Most manufacturers aim for 80% utilisation of the fabric. Chapter 11 Classic and casual overgarments. Cut round bodice pieces; rejoin the side seam 1—2.